Friday, January 2, 2015

Getting Started with Bra-Making

For quite some time, I have wanted to make a bra.  (I know I am quite scatterbrained.) So.... I joined the bra-making group on Facebook.  I have watched the bra-making class on Craftsy.  After much struggle(more on that in the next post), I found a pattern that goes near to my size: the Bravo Bra 2. This pattern closely resembles my absolute favorite bra--the Elomi Energise. I'm hoping to buy the bra and a kit to start working on a fitting bra after Christmas.

Looking at the Elomi Energise and the Bravo Bra 2 side by side, you will notice horizontal seaming with a divided lower cup and a power bar at the side.  The major difference in the design is that the Elomi bra is raised higher in the center front, which I must admit that I like.


I also want a bra-making book.  The problem is, I can only buy one so I am stuck on which one to buy:
Anne St. Claire's Intimately Yours: Bras That Fit and Jennifer Lynn Matthews-Fairbanks's Bare Essentials: Construction and Pattern Drafting for Lingerie Design. I'm am also considering purchasing Monica Bravo's videos: Bras 101 and Bras 102, which are available as DVDs or instant downloads. I hear that they are much better than the Craftsy class, and they were recently half off.  My main concerns at this point are fitting the bra and perhaps making a sports bra.  Also available is Beverly Johnson's Bramaker's Manual, but it is ridiculously expensive, and it's my opinion (from viewing the table of contents) that Anne St. Claire's and Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks books cover much of the same material and together they cost less than the Bramaker's  Manual and are sometimes available at your local library. In addition to that, the Matthews-Fairbanks book includes a pattern which is also downloadable.  

I want to make just five kinds of bras: a comfortable one that looks nice, a sports bra, a strapless bra, a longline bra and a nursing bra. I hope to make variations such as balconette, Demi, and plunge bras as well.  I may even try my hand at drafting the bras! We shall see.

I fully plan to post everything I learn as I make this first bra!

UPDATE:
As I find new materials on bra-making, I will add them here.

Norma Loehr's Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction is another resource. At $15, this eBook has been recommended in the bra making Facebook group and all over the blogosphere. 

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Grace Shirt, Tunic, Dress, Maxi, etc

I recently tested the Grace Pattern by Rose and Lee Designs. It offers 6 length options: shirt, tunic, knee length dress, maxi, average, and petite. There are also 4 sleeve options: sleeveless, short, three quarter length, and long. 



I cannot express how much I love this pattern!! I may be biased because it is the first thing I have made for myself. I may be biased because my mom told me I looked pretty in it (and she NEVER does that)! I may be biased because I was able to sew it with my beginner skills! Who cares why I am biased! I LOVE this pattern! 

When I cut my pattern, I cut the yoke and rest of the pattern based on my overbust/chest measurement. I cut a 4x for the front panel to be sure it would go over my full bust! I planned to fit out any excess if necessary, but it fit like a dream!



I am adding my picture for fit only, but if you really want to see how gorgeous this pattern is, look at the other tester photos.  You can find their blog posts below. 

I plan on making myself several of this pattern: dresses, shirts, tunics, maxis!! Yes! Score! I love it!  Check out the maxi version with long sleeves!


If you think this pattern is lovely and gorgeous, you can buy it in the Rose and Lee Designs Shops on Etsy and Craftsy


But I also will be offering a giveaway in my Facebook sewing group, Sewing Inspiration and Tutorials. To enter, join the group and comment on this post: https://m.facebook.com/groups/219280448227014?view=permalink&id=351977221624002

Friday, August 8, 2014

Open Letter to the Designer on Pattern Testing

In case you can't tell from my posts here on the blog, I have been doing quite a bit of pattern testing. It's not because I don't have patterns. I assure you, I do. Like any other blue-blooded American girl who sews, I have more patterns than I can sew in a lifetime. I stock up on Big 4 commercial patterns whenever they are on sale. I also have a small collection of indie children's patterns because Melissa Mora of Blank Slate Patterns makes super cute boys patterns, and her directions are crystal clear. (Will be sewing up some of those soon.)

So here is an open letter to designers from me as a pattern tester. 

Dear Designer,

I really like testing patterns. Having this encouragement is the only way I seem to sew. I also enjoy the small group and camaraderie of the small sewalong. I enjoy having something to put on my blog. All in all, I generally enjoy pattern testing. 

But Designer, here is why I needed to write this letter though. There are a few things that must be made clear. 

First of all, Designer, getting a copy of your pattern is nice. In our arrangement, it is your end of the bargain, but it is in no way compensation commensurate with the time, effort, and materials that I have put into sewing the garment. Let's be clear. Your pattern, at most costs $20 (and that's at the high end. I have yet to test one that expensive). 

Any pattern I sew will eat that $20 "compensation" in labor alone! Who can tell me what minimum wage is? How many hours work can be paid with a $20 pattern?

Then we must factor in the materials, Designer. There is the paper and ink for printing pdf patterns. I was afforded the experience recently to print a 20 page pattern (and assemble it and trace it onto tissue paper to adjust it) only to find that the designer posted an updated draft the next morning. I was LIVID!

Materials also include fabric and notions. Designer, if you are conducting a pretest and will need more than one garment sewn, it needs to be stated in the beginning. I recently signed up to sew a bodice only. I was given the bodice pattern, sewed the bodice pattern, and was then given a skirt pattern to test. I tested the skirt pattern. I was then told that I needed to participate in another round of testing in order to get my copy of the final pattern when released. I more than fulfilled my commitment, as initially requested. Furthermore, because of the way the pattern was distributed (bit by bit), I ran out of fabric so I am stuck with a completely unwearable dress and have wasted a lot of fabric.  I am not a happy camper!

Finally, I would encourage you, Designer, to know the complexity of the task at hand. If you want a garment properly tested, it takes time. Each of the simple garments on this blog has been tested within the week allotted. I am very up front with designers about the fact that I am a beginner at sewing. I also am clear that I wear well above a B cup and that I will need to adjust the bodice for a proper fit. Adjustments take time. Other aspects of proper sewing take time as well. If there are bias pieces, they need to hang before being cut and hemmed. Knit fabric also needs resting time. More complex designs will require more time as well. Be mindful of these things as you set timelines and deadlines.  If you have strict deadlines that cannot be changed and you are having to roll call half of your testers because they have not met your deadline, I assume that you have waited until the last minute and that you did not allot appropriate time for the testing. To me, that indicates poor planning. And as the saying goes...

Original Image Source
Again, pattern testers do it for FREE! In no way does a "gifted" pattern cover the time or materials for the project, but Designer, you need us. So make the experience enjoyable. Don't make it stressful. Be respectful of our time and materials by being organized. Understand that while this is exciting and top priority for you, we are in essence doing you a favor and not the other way around. You gain far more from the process than we do, but we do it because we enjoy it, because we think it's fun.  I always do my best to honor commitments, but real life can get in the way. Guess what? I have a real life that extends beyond your test!

If you want professional patten testers who work 100 percent on your time and don't act like volunteers, pay them.  Don't use volunteer hobby sewists, employ professionals.

But understand that, ultimately, part of the burden in testing is on me. I become invested as I spend time and money on this project. So respect me when I want to do it well. Designer, respect that!!  Recently, Bunny from La Sewista was torn apart in the comments to her blog for criticizing the work of several bloggers and designers. One of the comments from a different designer says that photos are from testers (another freebie you get) who may be less experienced with sewing. It is my firm belief that anyone can do good sewing if they take their time.  Perhaps the shoddy work is due to rushed testing. Not planning an appropriate timeline and rushing testers does not make for a good process. Testers will be unhappy with their garment, and you won't have usable promotional photos. 

In closing, be a professional, but be appreciative because you aren't compensating pattern testers. Designer, these are just kind people who do it because they enjoy helping. Please, make testing an enjoyable and rewarding experience. 

Yours truly,
Tester 

Now, after that, you may think that I may be unprofessional and may not need to test.  Actually, quite the opposite is true. I always do my best when sewing. I always try to keep my word. I give honest and critical feedback, but I am always tactful and respectful. That is why the experience that prompted this post was so upsetting. I have enjoyed testing all of the patterns so far, but this was the most stressful testing experience ever! 

So this will likely be the last pattern test for a while. I am annoyed and frustrated beyond belief!  I will not be worked this way when I am not being compensated. Even if I were being compensated, I wouldn't allow anyone to treat me with such disregard.  I am really quite over it. Unless it's for my son, I am not sewing it, and there are really only so many designs that little boys wear.  

And now to deal with the guilt of basically neglecting my child while stressing over trying to fulfill a constantly evolving commitment to Designer, and all for nothing!

End rant!

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Boot Cut Heaven Pants for Dolls

I tested another doll pattern, and I am officially in love!

This time I used a red and pink abstract designed fat quarter to sew the Boot Cut Heaven by Amy Sue Adams of Made for Dolls. 

This pattern is a doll pants pattern with real inset pockets! OMG! You can put stuff in the pockets!!

The thing I love about Made for Dolls patterns is that the pieces fit together like a dream!

I have a strange story to go with these pants. I had cut the pants, and I was sitting down to sew by sunlight. I pinned my pocket facing and began to sew. I was wondering why the piece didn't fit perfectly together. Well, guess what? I had sewn the pocket facing to the crotch of the pants! Lol. 

Well as I was picking the seam, the the light bulb on my sewing machine flickered and went out. I thought, Well I had better learn to change the bulb. At least, I can keep sewing! Well my son went to turn on the light and NO POWER AT ALL! It was out until after midnight. 

Saturday, I got up and got ready to finish the pants. Got almost done and realized I needed the right sized elastic. Well, someone had stolen my tire and lug nuts off my car!! No shopping today!

Anyhow, here is the pattern as much as I have completed. I will be adding elastic after I get my tire fixed so I can get to the store. 

Anyhow, here are the pants! 


And I love doing pockets. Look! My topstitching is getting better!!

When I posted in the sewing group, I was told how cute it would be to make a triangle scarf and fringe bag for the doll! I could totally dress the doll like the girls in the Disney Channel Original Movie The Color of Friendship. (I absolutely LOVE that movie! If you haven't seen it, check it out next February! I insist!)

If you love this pattern, you can buy it from her Craftsy shop: http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/clothing/boot-cut-heaven/103587

I will update this post when I get elastic!

I thought I should mention that I tested this pattern and so it was free for me, but my opinions are still my own. I really do think these pants are cute!!


Stars and Stripes Dress and Tunic for Dolls

I think I have found a new love in sewing doll clothes! I had the opportunity to test the Stars and Stripes pattern from Amy Sue Adams of Made for Dolls. 

This pattern offers two dress options and a peplum tunic option, all of which include a fully lined bodice and a Velcro closure in the back. 

I made the tea length version which I made from a fat quarter that I got for a dollar at Joann's. The cotton pressed beautifully and the dress came out just so cute!  

Check out my chocolate paisley Stars and Stripes Tea Length Dress for 18 inch dolls! I am so proud of it!


I can't find any of my American Girl dolls, but the photos with the listing are just so darling! You should check them out!

I can see doing doll dresses to match the little girl dresses using the Cottage Mama Party Dress! It would be so cute!

If you think this pattern is cute and see all the possibility that it offers, you can purchase it from the Made for Dolls Craftsy shop: http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/toy/stars-and-stripes-18-in-doll-pattern/101495?fresh=true&NAVIGATION_PAGE_CONTEXT_ATTR=PATTERN

Below are some links you may find helpful. 



I thought I should mention that I tested this pattern and so it was free for me, but my opinions are still my own. I really do think this dress is cute!!

Playtime Pocket Pants for Cloth Diapered Toddlers

I was very lucky to test the darling little Playtimd Pocket Pants and Shorts by Jill Auxford of AimerLae and Finn because I just found out that my sister will be cloth diapering my new niece, and these little things will be perfect!

The pattern features a fold over yoga band waist that allows for adjustment in the rise as well as cuffs on the legs that allow for variation in length. This allows the pattern to be one size for children sizes 12 months to 3T. Furthermore, if you know anything about pattern adjustment, the pattern can easily be adjusted to fit bigger toddlers. 

I don't have a whole lot of pictures of this one because I didn't do anything new except the inset pocket. I may address that in another post if anyone wants me to. 

And here the shorts are with the band flipped up!

And here they are with the band flipped down (and the fabric showing truer color). 

The pants/shorts offer lots of extra bum room for the cloth diaper bums, and with as soft knit, they can be so comfy for babies and toddlers as they learn to work their little bodies. 

If you think these pants are darling, you can order the pattern from the AimerLae and Finn Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/listing/194840875/aimerlae-finn-playtime-pocket?ref=shop_home_active_1

There is a coupon code for a discount until Thursday: PPPSALE. 

I thought I should mention that I tested this pattern and so it was free for me, but my opinions are still my own. I really do think these shorts are cute!!





Mo's Lounge Gown, Lettuce Hems, and Knit Necklines

I sewed up the 6-12 month version of Mo's Lounge gown by Katrina Boin of MoBowtique! The gown goes all the way up to a size 10 though!!

It is a lovely little pattern with raglan sleeves and lettuce hems! 

I am in love with this little pattern and plan to make more! 

It came together so quickly and easily! 

I used a lightweight interlock (the same as I used in the Uptown/Downtown Dress- http://babystepstocouture.blogspot.com/2014/06/uptowndowntown-dress-sewing-knits.html).

So, here are my pictures of the dress. 

This one is before I finished, but it shows the lettuce hem so well!


And here is the dress with the neckline. On this pattern, I had to do some stretching to get the sleeves and neckline in. (Completely new concept to me. Lol)


And here is the dress on the baby. 

And I couldn't find a tutorial on how to do the lettuce hem the way I did so I will just describe it. First, I zigzagged around the edge of the entire dress with a medium sized zigzag stitch. Next, I took the dress to the ironing board, and I folded the zigzag stitch under and pressed, easing in the excess. Finally I took my dress to the sewing machine and sewed the hem down. I sewed with a straight stitch, stretching the fabric as much as I could as I sewed. I am not sure if the straight stitch was the best choice, but it worked for me. 

If you think this little gown is as cute as a button, you can purchase the dress from the Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/listing/196445409/mos-lounge-gown-nightgown-pattern-size?ref=listing-shop-header-0

Use this coupon code until Friday to get a 25 percent discount: RELEASE. 

I thought I should mention that I tested this pattern and so it was free for me, but my opinions are still my own. I really do think this dress/nightgown is cute!!

UPDATE: 
Here is some information on drafting and sewing knit neckbands: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/projects/series_300/307/ISE_307-1_INST.pdf