Friday, May 9, 2014

My First Hand Embroidery Project

Well, it is not my first.  My grandma used to give me stuff like this to do when I was a child, but I haven't done any since I was about eight years old.  So, I decided to buy myself a kit to help me remember.  It isn't going to be the prettiest because I am going to be playing with the stitches a bit, but for about $5, it isn't so serious. (In fact, I actually bought this kid because the kit was about $1 more than just a hoop.) The kit includes the printed fabric, directions, the embroidery hoop, the needle, and all the thread you should need.  

The kit includes the opportunity to try several basic stitches, which I have listed below.  As I try the stitches, I will write posts and link them here as well.  I plan to use tutorials from Wendy Gratz from Shiny Happy World!!

Here are the stitches:
Satin Stitch
Back Stitch
Lazy Daisy
French Knot

The instructions include a diagram with a key. It explains which color and which stitch to use for each part of the embroidery. The letters in the diagram corespond to the written instructions. (Diagram for the visually/specially inclined and written directions for the verbally inclined... Works for me!!)


As you can see in the picture below, I have already started on the leaves. 


Baby Steps

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

My First Full Bust Adjustment on Princess Seams: Part 2-Moving the Apex Over

In the previous post, I covered moving the apex down. In this post, I will cover moving it over.  

I have measured myself quite extensively, and I know that my apexes are about 11 inches apart.  Now, on a princess seam garment, the princess line can hit one of two places: directly on the apex or just outside the apexes.  So as far as the distance between the apexes, we will use the edge of the princess line to guide us, ignoring the apex marked on the pattern. (I mean, logically different sizes would require the apexes be at different widths.)

So, with an apex distance of 11 inches, I would need at least 6.5 inches for the center piece to be wide enough at the bust.  So I will add about an inch or so.  

I measured out an inch and did my best to get that line in there without adding a huge arm hole.  I don't mind extra at the waist.  I will probably need it, but extra in the arm hole would be a nightmare.  The extra in the waist can easily be fitted out later.

Consider the princess seam and the apex moved!!

From here, I just followed some FBA tutorial.  I also added width at the waist.  To be sure, I remeasured all of my pattern pieces again. In the next post, I will reveal the tissue fit result.

My First Full Bust Adjustment on Princess Seams: Part 1-Moving the Apex Down

I am in a wonderful Facebook group, called Sewing Inspiration and Tutorials.  I got the advice on how to do this from there and this tutorial. 

Really this is my second attempt, but it is my first successful one!

First I traced my pattern and eliminated removed all of the seam allowances.

The first part of this adjustment involves moving the apex down.  You have to make sure that the fullness is in the right place or you will have some weirdness going on.  

So first I measured from my shoulder to my apex and compared the measurement to the pattern. My measurement was 15 inches as compared to the 12 inches on the pattern.  This means that I need to lower the apex of the dress about 3 inches.


To lower the apex, I drew a box around the apex using the notches as reference points.  

Next, I cut the boxes out and moved them down 3 inches and taped the pieces in place. (Now, I would suggest putting tissue paper beneath before you do this.  It just makes things easier, but I put an envelope beneath so you could see.)

I taped the pieces to the tissue paper and trued the lines the best I could.

Next, I needed to mark the level of the apex on the side panel.  Since it was an 1.5 inches below the notch on the center, I measured the same distance on the side. (60-58.5=1.5)

The apex is at the right height!





Tuesday, April 29, 2014

My First Steps

It am very excited to learn more about sewing.  To be sure, I am a total beginner seamstress.  I have made a few very simple garments, but haven't ventured beyond everyday fabrics.  In fact, I am only just about to have my first go at knits and a full bust adjustment.  So wish me luck! I don't own a walking foot.  I was hoping that Barbara Deckert's Craftsy class on Plus Sized Pattern Fitting and Design would be helpful, but it really wasn't.  (I will write a formal review later.)

Anyhow, here is my plan: 
I will continue to sew for my son and myself. 
I will start with pattern fitting and a bit of hand embroidery. 
I also will be trying to get more well acquainted with my sewing machine. 


Next, if I can get a copy of the book, I would like to sew my way through Sarai Mitnick's The Collette Sewing Handbook.  I will work on pattern fitting through this whole process.
I will take Pam Howard's The Classic Tailored Shirt and make my 3 year old a shirt.  This will help me learn the process of making shirts.
I will also be trying my hand at some simple drafting: shorts for my son and a bodice for me.

Then, I will begin on my journey to more couture sewing.
I will read Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques, practicing all that I find in the pages.
I will take Susan Khalje's Craftsy Class The Couture Dress class and make a dress that way. (I am thinking that I will make the Cottage Mama Party Dress using those techniques.  It will be a birthday present for my niece.)
I  also will be trying to get a copy of Claire Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. 
I will also be looking into Connie Long's Sewing With Knits.
I will also be looking into Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture and Cotton and Linen.

Next, I will embark on learning a bit of tailoring.
I will take Stephanie Lincecum's Classic Tailoring: The Blazer and make a blazer for my 3 year old son.
I also will be trying some fly front pants. 

Finally, I will try smocking and heirloom sewing.  I want to look at Sewing for a Royal Baby by the editors of Sew Beautiful Magazine and Perfect Party Dresses by Susan O'Conner. 


I will be thrifting the fabric for most of these projects: sheets and old garments from the Salvation Army and Goodwill so that my budget will permit plenty of practice. Now to find the time to practice.  Lol. 

The plan is subject to change, but...

My goals are to make homecoming, prom, and christening gowns.  So here we go!

Baby Steps!

Monday, February 24, 2014

Two Favorite PBS Sewing Shows

I have been thoroughly enjoying CreateTV and PBS--but mostly CreateTV!  I like the cooking, the traveling, the gardening, but most of all, I like the sewing!  I found out that two of my favorite shows are available to watch online: Sewing With Nancy (http://wpt.org/SewingWithNancy/Video) and It's Sew Easy (links below)!  Soon as I get a job, I am donating to PBS!!



It's Sew Easy Episodes (The links aren't live yet.  I am making this post for my sewing group so that they can have it.  Not being sloppy.  There is just a sense of urgency here.  Be back to update it when I get to a computer.) Since I listed the episodes by number, the first link at each series is like a table of contents. All of the videos are on Vimeo so be sure you are clicking a Vimeo link to watch the show. 

Series 100: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/program_notes_100.htm
101: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38499419/739521c66e
102: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38581196/828a3f1254
103: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38583127/a996f72b42
104: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38584486/8f538bce8e
105: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38585676/c7effae054
106: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38587250/c01752ca17
107: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38589853/5d6ad70c56
108: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38597262/59f3936c7a
109: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38601915/7e41e5fbe1
110: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38610260/de2612c83b
111: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38610899/3ba0425568
112: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38611847/e5076e36a3
113: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/38613085/1ba1e75c48

Series 200: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/program_notes_200.htm
201: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44064715/de575b2ed0
202: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44064714/df67c94da1
203: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44068150/9287716198
204: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44086477/178db1f388
205: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44087741/2be6ba2983
206: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44087742/068c9365b3
207: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44087743/38af90cfd1
208: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44087744/250274fd5d
209: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44087745/b8e9c792d1 
210: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44099962/575866c8c7
211: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44099961/dd174a95a8
212: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44099960/78bd808a0f
213: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/44099963/ad48d4c5fb

Series 300: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/program_notes_300.htm
301: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49396296/651a763dd9
302: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49413001/2cb3e8245a
303: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49413000/1436c44102
304: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49428180/8014482009
305: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49428178/ecbcfc40e3
306: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49428179/7669f39b1e
307: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49471508/f84fd5a67c
308: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49482125/c92c597bc5
309: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49471511/576a1f9fc5
310: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49471512/8bfe33c653
311: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49471513/584f0eb9c1
312: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49478422/fbe9363019
313: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/49478421/6dac3d1572

Series 400: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/program_notes_400.htm
401: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55186964/0c234f3e20
402: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55186965/fbe7ff6a1f
403: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55186966/890eb6ec91
404: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55186967/9259671e44
405: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55186968/b3aa6ac408
406: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55190240/dc444dc1b4
407: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55190241/7dc7ccc165
408: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55190242/ba92b9d1c4
409: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55190243/cbcbbf0d87
410: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55190245/47da2d3371
411: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55193081/9bd916cef5
412: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55193082/2184fc4de8
413: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/55193083/13c3fbf9ab

Series 500: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/program_notes_500.htm
501: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68751053/bf01dd2ebd
502: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68751054/dda7ecebcc
503: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68751055/b53360cdd3
504: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68751056/6b352a33d7
505: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68751057/34306da879
506: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68774367/2e2412f42c
507: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68774370/29982bb1d0
508: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68774371/995807933a
509: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68774373/218c5c2d3b
510: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68774372/30e98306f2
511: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68776607/cc669617a4
512: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68780301/d0abdf38a1
513: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/68776606/852d69af6e

Series 600: http://www.itsseweasytv.com/program_notes_600.htm
601: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76723175/130177a06d
602: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76723176/4a2915ebab
603: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76723177/be44463dc7
604: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76723178/27f23b035e
605: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76723179/d1c2b2b934
606: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76744226/d018453339
607: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76744227/7d0790e10c
608: http://vimeo.com/ksproductions/review/76744228/006af7406a

Hope you enjoy them though!  I love these shows and plan to watch them all!  I am totally going to veg out in front of the tv.

Baby Steps

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Romanée-Conti Taste on a Tap Water Budget

Two main features of couture sewing that appeal to me are the fit and the expertise with which the garments are constructed.  Many of the designs, I could live without.  I desire expertly constructed, perfectly 

Wondering what RomanĂ©e-Conti is?  Well, it is a French wine that I have never tasted.  And Chanel is a French designer that I have never worn.  But from what I hear, both are top of the game!  And I hope to be tops in my field of expertise, the best mom to my son, and the best person and friend and sister and aunt (and whatever else to whomever else) that I can be!  So why can't I look good and be comfortable doing it?

I intend to look my best being the best I can be!  

I chose to start sewing because I thought it would be less expensive, and if I employ couture techniques and compare apples to apples it is!  What I also found is that it really can't compare to ready to wear!  Fabric costs that much alone!

However, getting that perfect fit intrigues me! I plan on drafting a few shirts, dresses, skirts, and pants.  I also plan on learning to alter commercial patterns to fit and still maintain the integrity of the piece.

I want to also learn more about fashion draping because I really don't know what that is.

So here is the short list of things to do:
Focus on fitting patterns
Focus on learning technique
Focus on drafting patterns

Here is how I will do it:
I will read.
I will watch videos.
I will sew.
And hopefully, I will be able to take a class one day!

And just as an FYI, my fashion icons are Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey, Dorothy Dandridge, Jackie Kennedy, Doris Day, Billie Holiday, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, and quite oddly enough, the ladies on the television series Charmed and Sex in the City!  I really am all over the place!

Well what can I say? Between my eclectic taste, my plus sized figure, and my limited budget, there is plenty of reason to learn to sew my own garments!

So join me!  Learn along if you want!  

Happy sewing!
Baby Steps