Guess Who's Bizack!

Sorry about the sparse postings. After the last garment I posted, I got a bit ill, but it's finally under control, and I'm ready to sew.

First, I have my bra pattern together, but I've not sewn it. I also have the tutorial written on what I did, but it needs a LOT of work to be useful. Here is a preview of what I've got. There is one more page but I will upload the whole pattern once those posts are ready. 

Second, my little sewing group has gotten so big!  We're almost to 40,000 members. It looks like we may have a little giveaway when we get there. We shall see. Feel free to join us: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Sewinginspirationandtutorials/

Third, I led my first real sew along for my group. Usually, I do themed challenges. We pick a theme, and you do anything you want with that theme. This was my first time doing a real sew along where we all completed the same project. I have been busy helping people get that proper fit. We are in the last bits. Hopefully, we will get that finished up soon and they will let me share their pics here on the blog. Mine is cut! Here's a pic of me getting ready to cut. 

Aside from that, I've got some projects planned. I want to sew the Clean Slate Pants for my son with a real fly. I've done a faux fly. Time to step things up. They are printed and taped!

I also want to sew a blazer. I have Simplicity 2446 adjusted and ready to cut. This week, Lord willin'. Going for a perfect fit with bound buttonholes and vented sleeves. Always have to try something new. Here it is adjusted and ready. (Took me an hour because my tape had an attitude problem.)

Simplicity 1427 and 1183 are also on the list, and I've bought my fabric for a mock up. It will be my first corset and first tutu skirt, but when I first saw this picture on Simplicity 1427 envelope, I decided loved it! So here is my fabric next to the view I fell in love with. Both patterns are by Andrea Schiew, and she has tips for the corset on her blog!

I also hope to make a couple quick and dirty sundresses for me, a pair of jeans for me, and some ribbon tutus for my nieces birthdays in August. 

These are my plans. Will it get done? Some of it.  Will I get distracted and probably switch out some stuff? More likely than I'm willing to admit. (I really need another question here for the Rocky and Bullwinkle cliff hanger effect I was going for, but I don't have another good question. If you've got one, leave it in the comments.). Such is the nature of the true scatterbrain!  But since the fabric is picked, it increases my chances of sticking to the plan. My sew along dress and a blazer will be done this week (unless something else strikes me). Look out for it. 

Finding a Bra Pattern for a Large Bust

Before you buy a bra pattern there are a few things to know.  First of all, it is necessary to know that all bra patterns do not measure the size the same.  So to select a size, you will want three measurements: overbust, full bust, and underbust.  You will want to measure in a well fitting bra as well. (I know, I know.). I suggest finding a specialty bra shop to be fitted and try on bras.  When you find one that fits, measure yourself in that in the dressing room.  (If you are like me, you may just leave with it.) once you have your measurements, use the directions by the bra pattern designer to select the best size for you.

The second important fact to know is your breast shape because this is an indicator as to which type of seaming is best for you.  To find your breast shape, remove your bra, place your hand under your breast, and lift a little.  If when you lift, the top of your breast is hollow, you have oval shaped breasts; if your whole breast pushes upward, you have round shaped breasts. Oval breasts do well with horizontal seaming, while vertical or diagonal seaming works best for more round breasts.  Divided lower cups offer a but more room as well as a bit more support.  The side power band pushes breast tissue forward.

I am more full figured so my posts will focus there because it is what I plan to know. Besides, there are enough blog posts on straight sized bra sewing.  I will be focusing on sewing my first bra and challenges that are unique to larger bust sizes.  One such issue is finding a suitable pattern.  Below is a list of patterns I have considered and the attributes of each.  As an FYI, I wear somewhere between a 40H and a 40J depending on the day and the cut of the bra.  Sometimes I even wear up to a 42J. For that reason, if a bra doesn't go above a DD or DDD, I haven't listed it here.

Pin Up Girls Classic Bra--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this is the bra sewn in the Craftsy bra making course.  This full band bra features diagonal seaming and a simple two part cup.  This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes.  Bands range from 30-48 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope.  There are four envelopes, each with a size range.  None overlap.  The website says that underwires are optional for this style of bra. $20 US

Pin Up Girls Shelley--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this full band bra has diagonal seaming, a divided lower cup, and a power band at the side.  This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes.  Bands range from 30-48 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope.  There are four envelopes, each with a size range.  None overlap.  The website says that underwires are optional for this style of bra.  $20 US

Pin Up Girls Sharon--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this partial band bra has diagonal seaming and a simple two part cup.  It is also front closing!  This pattern comes in a much more limited range of sizes.  Bands range from 30-38 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope.  There are two envelopes, each with a size range.  None overlap. The website says that underwires are essential for this style of bra.  While the band size is not a wide range and thus cup sizes are more limited, I did feel it necessary to give this a mention because it still has a wide range of cup sizes for the band sizes served--and it's front closing! (although it gets no where near mine). $16 US

Pin Up Girls Linda--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this partial band bra has diagonal seaming and a simple two part cup.  This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes.  Bands range from 30-48 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope.  There are four envelopes, each with a size range.  None overlap. The website says that underwires are necessary for this style of bra.  $20 US

Elan B520--This full band bra pattern includes a two part, diagonal seamed cup.  It comes in a fairly limited number of sizes. Bands range from 42-48, and cups range from C-FF.  The size range here is horrible, but it is a very inexpensive pattern, costing only $10.50.  

Bravo Bella Bras Bravo Bra 2--Designed by Monica Bravo, this full band bra has horizontal seaming, a divided lower cup, and a power band at the side.  This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes.  Bands range from 32-48 and cups range from D-I. The most wonderful thing about this pattern is--well, there are 2 wonderful things.  First, all sizes are included in one pattern.  Second, it's available as a digital download--buy today, play today!  $20

Queen Bra Elite--Designed by Anne St. Claire of Needle Nook Fabrics, this full band bra has horizontal seaming and a simple two part cup.  This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes.  Bands range from 34-48 and cups range from D-H. All sizes are included in one pattern envelope. $15

As you can see from above, there are as many limitations to finding a bra pattern that fits as there are finding bras that fit.  First, there is NO pattern that I have been able to find that goes beyond a 48 band and and I cup.  Bras are sold (albeit expensive) to an M cup in ready to wear, but patterns have some catching up to do.  Second, aside from the patterns my mother and daughter, Anne St. Claire and Monica Bravo, there are extremely limited sizes in the bra pattern envelopes.  This isn't really suited to my liking. As a person with a 40 band who is planning to lose some weight, I don't want to need two of the same bra pattern. (There is a work around though that I will get to eventually.) Further, I wish Monica Bravo would come up with a diagonal seamed bra because I LOVE the size range that she has in one envelope and the fact that she offers the only digital download.  Some people need the vertical or diagonal seaming, and she has the widest range of large bust sizes.  

So, these are the patterns I have been able to find. Most don't go beyond an H cup, none go beyond I.  Come on bra pattern designers!  

Getting Started with Bra-Making

For quite some time, I have wanted to make a bra.  (I know I am quite scatterbrained.) So.... I joined the bra-making group on Facebook.  I have watched the bra-making class on Craftsy.  After much struggle(more on that in the next post), I found a pattern that goes near to my size: the Bravo Bra 2. This pattern closely resembles my absolute favorite bra--the Elomi Energise. I'm hoping to buy the bra and a kit to start working on a fitting bra after Christmas.

Looking at the Elomi Energise and the Bravo Bra 2 side by side, you will notice horizontal seaming with a divided lower cup and a power bar at the side.  The major difference in the design is that the Elomi bra is raised higher in the center front, which I must admit that I like.

I also want a bra-making book.  The problem is, I can only buy one so I am stuck on which one to buy:

Anne St. Claire's Intimately Yours: Bras That Fit and Jennifer Lynn Matthews-Fairbanks's Bare Essentials: Construction and Pattern Drafting for Lingerie Design. I'm am also considering purchasing Monica Bravo's videos: Bras 101 and Bras 102, which are available as DVDs or instant downloads. I hear that they are much better than the Craftsy class, and they were recently half off.  My main concerns at this point are fitting the bra and perhaps making a sports bra.  Also available is Beverly Johnson's Bramaker's Manual, but it is ridiculously expensive, and it's my opinion (from viewing the table of contents) that Anne St. Claire's and Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks books cover much of the same material and together they cost less than the Bramaker's  Manual and are sometimes available at your local library. In addition to that, the Matthews-Fairbanks book includes a pattern which is also downloadable.  

I want to make just five kinds of bras: a comfortable one that looks nice, a sports bra, a strapless bra, a longline bra and a nursing bra. I hope to make variations such as balconette, Demi, and plunge bras as well.  I may even try my hand at drafting the bras! We shall see.

I fully plan to post everything I learn as I make this first bra!

UPDATE:
As I find new materials on bra-making, I will add them here.

Norma Loehr's Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction is another resource. At $15, this eBook has been recommended in the bra making Facebook group and all over the blogosphere.