Before you buy a bra pattern there are a few things to know. First of all, it is necessary to know that all bra patterns do not measure the size the same. So to select a size, you will want three measurements: overbust, full bust, and underbust. You will want to measure in a well fitting bra as well. (I know, I know.). I suggest finding a specialty bra shop to be fitted and try on bras. When you find one that fits, measure yourself in that in the dressing room. (If you are like me, you may just leave with it.) once you have your measurements, use the directions by the bra pattern designer to select the best size for you.
The second important fact to know is your breast shape because this is an indicator as to which type of seaming is best for you. To find your breast shape, remove your bra, place your hand under your breast, and lift a little. If when you lift, the top of your breast is hollow, you have oval shaped breasts; if your whole breast pushes upward, you have round shaped breasts. Oval breasts do well with horizontal seaming, while vertical or diagonal seaming works best for more round breasts. Divided lower cups offer a but more room as well as a bit more support. The side power band pushes breast tissue forward.
I am more full figured so my posts will focus there because it is what I plan to know. Besides, there are enough blog posts on straight sized bra sewing. I will be focusing on sewing my first bra and challenges that are unique to larger bust sizes. One such issue is finding a suitable pattern. Below is a list of patterns I have considered and the attributes of each. As an FYI, I wear somewhere between a 40H and a 40J depending on the day and the cut of the bra. Sometimes I even wear up to a 42J. For that reason, if a bra doesn't go above a DD or DDD, I haven't listed it here.
Pin Up Girls Classic Bra--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this is the bra sewn in the Craftsy bra making course. This full band bra features diagonal seaming and a simple two part cup. This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes. Bands range from 30-48 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope. There are four envelopes, each with a size range. None overlap. The website says that underwires are optional for this style of bra. $20 US
Pin Up Girls Shelley--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this full band bra has diagonal seaming, a divided lower cup, and a power band at the side. This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes. Bands range from 30-48 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope. There are four envelopes, each with a size range. None overlap. The website says that underwires are optional for this style of bra. $20 US
Pin Up Girls Sharon--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this partial band bra has diagonal seaming and a simple two part cup. It is also front closing! This pattern comes in a much more limited range of sizes. Bands range from 30-38 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope. There are two envelopes, each with a size range. None overlap. The website says that underwires are essential for this style of bra. While the band size is not a wide range and thus cup sizes are more limited, I did feel it necessary to give this a mention because it still has a wide range of cup sizes for the band sizes served--and it's front closing! (although it gets no where near mine). $16 US
Pin Up Girls Linda--Designed by Beverly Johnson, this partial band bra has diagonal seaming and a simple two part cup. This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes. Bands range from 30-48 and cups range from AAA-H. All of the sizes are not available in one envelope. There are four envelopes, each with a size range. None overlap. The website says that underwires are necessary for this style of bra. $20 US
Elan B520--This full band bra pattern includes a two part, diagonal seamed cup. It comes in a fairly limited number of sizes. Bands range from 42-48, and cups range from C-FF. The size range here is horrible, but it is a very inexpensive pattern, costing only $10.50.
Bravo Bella Bras Bravo Bra 2--Designed by Monica Bravo, this full band bra has horizontal seaming, a divided lower cup, and a power band at the side. This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes. Bands range from 32-48 and cups range from D-I. The most wonderful thing about this pattern is--well, there are 2 wonderful things. First, all sizes are included in one pattern. Second, it's available as a digital download--buy today, play today! $20
Queen Bra Elite--Designed by Anne St. Claire of Needle Nook Fabrics, this full band bra has horizontal seaming and a simple two part cup. This pattern comes in a wide range of sizes. Bands range from 34-48 and cups range from D-H. All sizes are included in one pattern envelope. $15
As you can see from above, there are as many limitations to finding a bra pattern that fits as there are finding bras that fit. First, there is NO pattern that I have been able to find that goes beyond a 48 band and and I cup. Bras are sold (albeit expensive) to an M cup in ready to wear, but patterns have some catching up to do. Second, aside from the patterns my mother and daughter, Anne St. Claire and Monica Bravo, there are extremely limited sizes in the bra pattern envelopes. This isn't really suited to my liking. As a person with a 40 band who is planning to lose some weight, I don't want to need two of the same bra pattern. (There is a work around though that I will get to eventually.) Further, I wish Monica Bravo would come up with a diagonal seamed bra because I LOVE the size range that she has in one envelope and the fact that she offers the only digital download. Some people need the vertical or diagonal seaming, and she has the widest range of large bust sizes.
So, these are the patterns I have been able to find. Most don't go beyond an H cup, none go beyond I. Come on bra pattern designers!
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